Melting colors and fluid forms are not always easy to achieve and perfect, but Rubin&Chapelle – the designer duo that has dressed a host of notables so far – went quite innovative in translating comfort and freedom into a mix of rustic elegance and urban sharpness. Their FW15 collection, presented during the New York Fashion Week at the Top of the Standard Hotel, was the next stop in their ongoing exploration of modern dress codes.
Spring introduced prints in soft tops and dresses. This fall brings heavier fare in tweed coats and trousers. Designers Sonja Rubin and Kip Chapelle worked with designer Johanna Michel to develop prints based on traditional Scottish motifs. The results are rescaled and distorted digital prints of tartan and argyle in earth tones and pinks throughout this season’s collection.
The Scottish menswear influence appears in tweeds, kilt skirts, distorted tartans, and abstract argyles. “We wanted to modernize the traditional Scottish menswear look for women,” they explained. Jackets and tops are mechanically edge-fringed. Virtual fringes are on dresses and jackets achieved through print.
The silhouette is generally soft and easy. Bottoms include circle skirts, ¾ pants and pencil trousers. Tops include button up blouses and looser shapes. Kilt pleats are softened in silk blends and traditional patterns enlarged.
“We’re accustomed to solids but used a lot of print this season. Layering and mixing prints just felt right”, Sonja said. “The Top of the Standard has such a great view of the city. We love this space and always love seeing the classic hostess uniforms we designed. It’s like coming home again,” Kip Chapelle added.
Those chic wearable outfits were styled with rain boots, other weather-proof boots and metallic sneakers provided by Sperry Top-Sider which is the original brand of boat shoe designed in 1935 by Paul Sperry. The combination of the casual shoes with perfectly tailored and manipulated clothes – especially skirts and dresses – was very cool and desirable!
To create their charming dresses, coats, fringed and printed looks, the designers employed great quality fabrics including wool tweed, cotton shirting, wool suiting, duchess silk, silk broadcloth, and various silk/cotton blends in earthy and natural tones such as aqua, sherbet, taupe, tobacco, cream, copper, gold, and black. VIPS like Morgan Stewart and EJ Johnson were thrilled to see the collection up close at the presentation.
Designers Sonja Rubin and Kip Chapelle founded their brand in 1997 – as pioneers in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District opening their first store in 2002. In 2011 the duo opened their second store in Malibu, both stores designed by architect Annabelle Selldorf.
Ever since they count among their loyal clients Keira Knightley, Scarlett Johansson, Jude Law, Jessica Alba, Uma Thurman, Megan Fox, Angela Bassett, Dave Chappelle, Iman, Daryl Hannah, Cindy Sherman, Sienna Miller, Halle Berry, Cameron Diaz, Chelsea Clinton, Isabelle Huppert, Karolina Kurkova, Stella Tenant, Beyoncé, Sarah Jessica Parker, Tyra Banks, Chelsea Clinton, Oprah Winfrey, Sharon Stone, Jennifer Lopez, and Erykah Badu. What a glittering fashionable clientele! I want to be one of them!
Love!!!
Elena Sendona
