For Spring/Summer 2014 Gilles Mendel created a J.Mendel collection representing the house’s great heritage in craftsmanship as well as the designer’s wish to add a modern twist. There was great variety of styles and silhouettes in his collection and a noticeable interest in patchwork techniques. Mendel used lace, fur, leather, and exotic skins in a very fresh way, focusing on structure, geometry, paneling, and bold lines. His mermaid gowns were extraordinary and at the same time very clean in design. His sorbet colors were delicious. But the most important thing is that you can find many more outfits than can be worn off-red-carpet as well. There are beautiful dresses and ensembles, jackets, and separates a stylish girl can wear at a party, a business meeting, an art gallery opening, and undeniably on a date.
Mendel infuses his high-end, high-fashion collection with a youthful, slightly futuristic approach – which is very attractive across ages – while at the same time he keeps his ability to create luxury. He’s draping fabric where necessary, accentuates forms strategically, and keeps a balance between wearability and glamour. Most of his creations play with some sort of transparency, revealing skin in a very discreet and selective way. Color blocking and asymmetries are not overused but they play an interesting role in this collection. They are the “salt and pepper” added to a signature style of perfection and preciousness! I was completely impressed by the fact that even heavier fabrics are sewn in a way that gives them a flowing quality, and that lace is magically transformed into a solid, strong fabric. Mendel tames almost everything!!!
xxx
Elena Sendona
