It’s true that one of my favorite MB NY Fashion Week shows was the Calvin Klein Collection by the super-talented and well-established Mr Francisco Costa. Knitwear and the idea of textural coziness prevailed on the catwalk, while stardom shined front-row. The recently Academy-awarded Lupita Nyong’o as well as ever-charming Naomi Watts, and ever-imposing Anna Wintour were seating next to each other – the two actresses (both in Calvin Klein Collection) with a smile of approval in their faces while the notorious editor of US Vogue was keeping her enigmatic behind-shades gaze. It was a moment of great elegance throughout this nice Tribeca space – the Spring Studios – were the collection was presented.
This time the designer and Women’s Creative Director was in tune with the general trend of a woman who can be called a modern, urban nomad traveling the world, absorbing different cultures, always having her passport in her pocket. There was a broader discussion through the catwalks about this new-age cosmopolitan spirit and the super-confident woman who transcends geographical borders and makes the whole world her own. Along with par excellence cosmopolitan destinations this woman travels to the lesser known, combining business and pleasure. She appreciates the cultural roots of other people, their craftsmanship, techniques, and expertise. Overall, she’s a city dweller and she places comfort as a priority in her busy life. Clothes that everybody is thrilled to touch is definitely her secret weapon. These knits are really fabulous! Edgy and soft, colorful and sharp, this youthful lady is at the center of attention right now! Let’s see the designer’s vision point by point:
Silhouettes. Fragility balanced with a cool, street vibe. Contrasting proportions with slim or oversized shapes. From fitted, menswear-inspired coats, to those with an undone sensibility and raw edges – all are structured and intimate. The look is elongated, layered and relaxed. Extended sweaters, dresses and mid-calf length skirts form languid lines. Naïve details, like playful collars and glass beaded safety pin closures, infuse youthful touches. Innocence rediscovered. The casual ease of t-shirt dressing is heightened with sophisticated, embroidered nylon gauze dresses.
Fabrics. Modest, yet elevated. Exquisite knits form the foundation with ribbed textures underlying the collection. An intricate mix of hand-painted yarns are transformed into artisan tweeds, or woven and assembled for tactile, striped sweaters. Brushed mohair, cashmere and needle punched wool enhance the season’s cozy appeal, while creating an alluring sense of luxury. Marled and crushed, the plush surfaces embody depth and textural intrigue.
Palette. A tapestry of rich, warm tones. Grounded in a mélange of browns, from taupe and vicuna to chocolate and espresso, with accents of ember and olive. Multi-colored, full-length coats evoke a serene vibrancy. Combinations of classic black and white add a pure, graphic element.
Accessories. Urban edge. A flat, utility boot in tall and mid-heights completes the collection’s easy, city styling. The light gunmetal snake chain laces introduce a subtle, modern embellishment. Glass chain belts emphasize the waist.
This mix of coziness, edginess, and put-togetherness is magnificent and I’m sure you liked it too!
xxx
Elena Sendona
